View Full Version : manual windows/locks to powered

08-31-2006, 02:35 PM
I'm planning to do a lil project to convert my manual windows and locks to powered windows/locks. I was wondering what parts are needed. All i need is Just the powered window regulators, switches and panel. Am i correct? Yeah don't really feel like screwing myself over again like the lil climate control project i did. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!

08-31-2006, 06:39 PM
There are a few guys on here that have done it. Basically if I recall correctly you need the whole wiring harness, all the relays, the switches, the motors, new door panels, etc...

I think it would be easier to just swap doors and run you wiring harness myself.

Personally I would never swap to power windows and door locks. Too much added weight. And the more electronics make for more problems farther down the road.

08-31-2006, 09:33 PM
You will need AT LEAST
door panels
switches [they come together]
door lock ecu
wiring harness

You probably are better off getting the whole door, like Murg said.
I think the dash harness is the same, and already has the wiring and connectors, you just have to plug in your stuff.
Not positive though.

Do you have a GT or ST?

09-01-2006, 04:18 AM
Ok, I haven't actually done this yet, but I have the parts and have looked at my dash and such. You'll need the motors, wiring, door panels, and blue relay box in the center dash. Everything will bolt right up, and all of the wiring connecters and such are right there, just waiting to be connected.

Easiest way, like others said, is probably to just get the whole door if you can that way you can make sure you grab all the parts you need off it. I got 2 doors from a U-Pull-It for $80...which I don't think is too shabby.

And Murg, it's really not that much weight...the majority of the weight is in the doors and glass themselves. The added electronics I'm guessing add at MOST, 10 pounds or so. If you think about the fact that extra stereo equipment, etc. weighs much more than that, 10 lbs. is pretty insignificant in my eyes. If you think about it in the light of weight reduction, it's pretty much the same thing in that it's not worth it to reduce your weight unless you're gonna go all out and strip the car.

But I guess it really boils down to personal preference. I want to get keyless entry/remote start...plus I'm just getting tired of having to reach over and unlock the door or lower the window.

Anyways, do a search, there was already a much more comprehensive thread regarding the whole thing.

09-01-2006, 04:56 AM
by any chance do you have pictures of the blue box and such? the items i will have in a couple of weeks are the system 10 panels/brackets, switches and powered regulaters<the criss-cross thingy> and the other items such as the wiring harness and door lock ecu, where might i find those? and thanks guys for replying back to my thread

09-01-2006, 11:40 AM
10 pounds here and 10 pounds there add up quick. If you can make all the concessions you can in way of creature comforts, all the little things add up quick.

But in the end it comes down to two different schools.

I have never been a fan of power windows. Any electronic part is more prone to failure than a mechanical. That is the short of it. I have a `67 New Yorker. All original. The power windows don't work, and neither does the A/C. Sure, the Celicas are newer you say, the technology is better. But it is all the same difference to me.

Less weight + Less Failure = Better.

Again though, this is just my two cents. To a lot of ppl it is all about having all the toys, and adding power windows to a car yourself is also added cool points. I still think the easiest way would be to get some same color donor doors and swap though. Changing the mechanism inside a door is hell. I changed an old Camaro from power to manual years ago (to replace bad motors...) and it was hell to get in there and line it up right. All the holes were there though to rivet it back in. I assume the Celica would be the same. Just go slow and do one door at a time so you have the other one to guide off of for reference.

09-02-2006, 09:38 PM
i removed my radio today and didn't see the blue door control box behind it. does this mean i have to go buy one also?

09-02-2006, 11:59 PM
I have done this, you need EVERYTHING inside the door from the donar car, you need to put everything thing in your car, then there is plugs that you pop out to make the wires to into the car, and the wiring harnesses plug in right by the fuse box, you then need to add a relay, (empty space is there for it) and then get in behind your stereo and you need to put a power door lock controller in there (get that from the donor as well) really simple switch over..

09-10-2006, 06:10 AM
hmm...yeah my celica doesn't have the wire for the blue door control box so should i snip the wires from the donor car?..anyone have a diagram of the door control box harness? thanks again you guys for helping out.

09-23-2006, 06:28 PM
yeah got the power windows to work today only the driver side though, i guessing i need to change a fuse in order the passenger side to work. and for the power door locks thing, i need help guys

09-26-2006, 11:00 AM

09-28-2006, 03:38 AM
yeah got the power windows to work today only the driver side though, i guessing i need to change a fuse in order the passenger side to work. and for the power door locks thing, i need help guys

This might be stupid, but... I've done it before. Did you check to make sure the "power window lock" is not engaged? That will prevent the passenger side from working.

Locks aren't too hard to change, 3 screws on the outise of the door, a few plastic snaps, power lock goes in exactly like the manual lock comes out... There's a wire harness that needs to be plugged into the power lock. There's a blue "door lock controller" relay center that needs to be plugged in under the radio. That's about it. The entire power window and door lock conversion took me about 4 hours, having no idea how to do it. If you need any help, feel free to hit me up on AIM as I don't have much time to frequent the site lately with school work.

09-30-2006, 01:28 PM
dan you do have the wiring for the control box, its near the radio and stuff you have to take the radio out, then on top of the electronic box with a yellowish/green plug is where the lock control box goes.

10-05-2006, 01:46 AM
passenger side window doesn't work for some apparent reason. i tested the regulator with a battery and it works but with the switch it doesn't. any suggestions for this? and now the locks. i hooked up both of the door lock actuators with no problem and then when i removed the radio to drop in the blue door control ecu here's what i saw
no plug for the ecu. only plug that were there was the cruise control and this plug
any idea what's this plug?
so guys any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

10-17-2006, 06:34 AM
:bump:i would like to get this lil shindig done with. any ideas on my problem guys?

03-01-2007, 06:25 AM
so.. it's been 6-7 months and yet the passenger side power window still doesn't work. regulator motor is fine. wire harness is fine because the mirror and tweeter works. except the window doesn't go down. does any one have any suggestions? i don't really want to go over to toyota and fork over tons of $$$. any words would help guys. thanks.

and as for the power door locks. i hooked up the acutators. and since there was no plug for the blue door control box behind the radio. i went aftermarket. which cost me an arm and a leg.

03-01-2007, 06:48 AM
There shoulda been a plug there. I have a 92 ST and I know that mine did. Maybe the 91s are different...?

As for the window, maybe its a bad switch? I dunno, I just did my driver side today actually, kinda sucked...I ended up fucking up the wood on the door panel (wtf is with the wood anyways, breaks so easy and clips no worky now) and ran into a bunch of other little stumpers that turned it into pretty length ordeal heh. At least I know what to do for the passenger side tho.

Thinking about it, it can't be a switch unless you just have bad luck and both are shot. I'm thinking it has something to do with the wiring from the driver side to passenger side wiring.

03-01-2007, 09:07 AM
If you have a meter you may need to check continuity from one end of the wire(s) to the end at the window, you could have a short.

03-03-2007, 03:09 PM
haha yeah that flimsy wood panel sucks. as for my passenger side.. blah iono what to do. probably go to the junk yard and take the whole door. and if that doesn't work. i give up. i guess then it's ment for me to have power windows on my driver side and manual on my passenger side. haha