View Full Version : rack and pinion leaking

07-19-2006, 09:06 AM
The pass side oil seal inisde it is leaking bad.
Any tips on taking the rack and pinion out and puting a new one in. Ive never worked on the rack and pinion, everything else i have but no, not this. I have no lift, no air tools...... This is gonna be fun. :owned:

07-19-2006, 05:57 PM
well all i know is that u might need to buy a knuckle puller. u can do without but its PITA. u have to unbolt the the arms off the tire assembly. after that u gotta remove the hard lines and then somehow finagle ur arm to the where it actually connects to the steering colum. your best bet would be to get a haynes or a manual of somesort that has some pics for u.

as far as the no lift goes...do u have a jack and jack stands? vehicle needs to get off the ground some how.

07-19-2006, 06:15 PM
Take a look at VII of the BGB for a how to.
The 90 is the same as the 93 for this.

You want SR/. It is third from the bottom.
You will need Adobe to view.

07-19-2006, 07:45 PM
Thanks, alltracman for the link, ive been looking for that part of the BGB. :)

I have tools and jack, jackstands, thats not a problem, removing tie rods ends isnt a problem either or wasnt last time i removed them. Heres my problem.....


I dont have these special tools, most people dont unless you work at toyota. What can i use to remove the top of the high pressure hose?
Do i need a flare wrench to remove it?
Same with the 2 pressure lines that go to and from rack and pinion, what tools do i use to remove them? Can i get by with a normal wrench set?
Thanks for any help.

07-19-2006, 07:57 PM
Flare nut wrench is a good investment and will keep you from rounding the corners on any of the steering fluid pressure fittings. Use this on the connections at the rack. Obviously it is not necessary to disconnect hoses at the pump if youíre just changing out the rack.

Iíve had success removing tie rod ends from steering knuckle using a two jaw bearing puller (~$25). Bearing pullers and similar tools can also be rented from a tool rental place.

I suspect there are work arounds for the special Toyota tools. I havenít changed the rack on the Celica but didnít need any special tools on a Nissan rack I replaced.

07-19-2006, 08:10 PM
Flare nut wrenches are a handy thing....
Not that specialized either.
You can even head to Autocrap and pick up a set there.

You shouldn't have to remove the line up top, but if you want to, it should be a 19 and 21mm I believe. I could be wrong.
I have never needed a flare wrench for those 2 fittings.

07-22-2006, 09:01 AM
Well ive come to a conclusion that the ps must go bye bye. Its just more crap that can break and i would rather have manual steering but im not sure how long the rack is going to last without fluid circulating through it from time to time. It wasnt designed to be manual steering also, :laugh: .

Im gonna drain the rack, take out the pump and horribly located ps resivoir tank along with it, but only after i see how hard it is to steer. Of course i will drain the rack 1st, then try it and not forget to plug the lines up.

07-30-2006, 10:50 PM
What size flare wrench do i need to disconnect the 2 pressure hard lines from the rack? Its the part i circled in my pic, right side.

08-04-2006, 10:17 PM
How do i flush the power steering system? I have both pressure and return hoses off that go into the rack.

Do put a bottle of new ps fluid to the return hose? And let it flow back out the pressur hose? Then turn the engine over.

Whats the easiest way to disable the engine from starting?

Disco Dan
08-05-2006, 04:17 AM
Harbor freight has a tie rod end remover for like, 5 bucks. That's what I use. Or a hammer.

08-05-2006, 04:31 AM
Thanks, i got one from autozone for 20 bucks, then i can bring it back and get my money back. They both popped out easy. Can i just remove the middle wire to the dissy? Shouldnt that work then i can crank it over a few times and flush the ps system? Last time i had all spark plugs out but i dont want to bother removing all of them.

08-05-2006, 04:28 PM
u can disconect the distributor but the starter will still work. Just wont start up. Tha what u need?

08-05-2006, 05:50 PM
I don't get it. You need to run the engine to pump the fluid.
If you replaced the rack you don't need to flush, just get air out of the system. All hoses should be connected and the reservoir full. With front wheels off the ground start the engine and turn steering wheel slowly fully one direction to lock and then the other. Do this a few times slowly while the car is running. Turn off engine and refill reservoir. To be on safe side do it again.

If you want to drain all the old fluid you might just tap into the steering fluid cooler connection at front of the engine compartment. You could probably just gravity drain the reservoir, or run the engine just long enought to pump out the old fluid.

08-05-2006, 11:15 PM
This sucks, both threads from the pressure and reuturn hoses that go into hte rack are about 80% of the way in, there are about 2 threads left. And i cant put any more torque or they will snap.
It was such a pain, took me like an hour to thread them in, the fuel filter was in the way and i dont know if i can just disconnect it. I know its under pressure, and i forgot what to do about that. My 17mm flare wrech was too long, so that didnt help. :(
Im going to test the rack before i put it together and see if it holds fluid and hope for no leaks. :ugh:

Anyway thanks for the help so far.

08-07-2006, 10:31 AM
My rack and pinion came with 3 o ring rubber seals. I see no groove around the pressure and return tubes where they screw into the rack.

I also dont see any o ring seal that is used for these 2 connections to the rack in the BGB or my chiltons manual.

Do i really need them? Someone said to look for a groove at the connections but i dont see any groove. I want to make sure i dont need them, i want 100% no leaks, and its going to be harder to keep leaks out, with the full synthec valvoline ps fluid i put in.

I didnt see it leaking when i tested the ps system and started the engine. I turned the steering wheel a few times slowly left-right making sure ps fluid is in the system to the cold lvl. I just hope the fluid is running into the rack and its not somehow blocked at the connections. I noticed this black stuff inside the 2 thread connections in my new rack. Kind of looked like chipped paint or grease.

08-07-2006, 01:40 PM
I think the pressure and return lines are steel and flared at the end. The threaded portion slides down and presses the flared end into the mate in the rack - no o rings necessary and I would not expect all the threads to disappear into the rack. Assuming your hoses are new or didn't leak before you installed the new rack I think you should be good. Replacing a steering rack is a tough job, partly because they are hard to access. Congratulations.

08-10-2006, 09:35 PM
I just want to say thanks everyone for your help, espacially davmac. Im done, no leaks so far. :hehe:

I still get a grinding noise when i turn very slowly, but now i know its the balljoints for sure. So i have another big job, 3 new wheel bearings, 2 new ball joints. My wheel bearings are ok, but ive only replace one, so i have no idea how many miles are on the others.

08-10-2006, 11:32 PM
i was going to do that to my 3rd gen but with almost 300k im probally going to get a rebuilt one, if i use atf like toyota reccomends it leaks out every 4 days, so i put synthetic 75w90 gear oil in, works fine now, and only leaks needs refilling every 4 or 5 weeks

but thats just a temp fix, thats only if u are gonna get another rack