View Full Version : Problems after 3s-gte swap

05-21-2006, 05:58 PM

As i already mentioned before, i'm currently swapping a JDM celica 3s-gte into my EDM MR2. After i connected all the vital functions (sensors, fuel system, ignition etc), i started the engine, but after about two seconds the engine dies. The ECU didn't give any error codes.
So, after i disconnected the AFM and started the engine again, it keeps on running. After that i checked the vacuum and it was around -0.6 bar. There are 2 vacuum lines that i haven't connected yet. These are the ones underneath the intake manifold, on the side of the timing belt. You can see them on the attached picture. Ofcourse i put a stop on it when i started the engine.

So, my question, does anybody know where these vacuum lines are for, or does anybody have a suggestion how to solve this problem or where to search. Any help is welcome.


05-21-2006, 07:05 PM
Almost look like the ones that should go to the PS pump. I would check for other air leaks. Take a very good look over everything, from the air filter to the head. Usually its something obvious taht you look at a hundred times without seeing.

05-21-2006, 07:24 PM
Yea, those 2 do look like the ones that go to the power steering pump... One is open to your manifold.. so that would cause a vac leak.. whether or not be enough to stall the engine out ... eh I kinda doubt it... it isn't that massive of a leak.

05-22-2006, 09:22 AM
Well, thats one problem solved, cause is don't have PS.

You guys think my problems are due to leakages? Cause i do have a vacuum. I don't know what is a normal reading, but i thought it was pretty good. Anyone know what is normal on an idling engine?

05-22-2006, 03:31 PM
You can get decent vacuum and still have an air leak. Look for something after the AFM but before the turbo. I always miss something there. Then check turbo to throttle body. Then check intake manifold from all angles.

Also pressure isnt' read as a negative number. You should have a reading of in-hg (imperial) or mm-hg (metric).

Could be an AFM problem with what you describe. Did you touch any of the wiring? I'd still be first inclined to think it is an air leak.

joe's gt
05-23-2006, 12:11 AM
When i first started my swap and went through the first steps of troubleshooting i had a vacuum leak and it turned out that my afm was bad even though it didn't throw a code. So parts can go bad without throwing a code. It's not good that ur engine runs better when u disconnect the afm. u probably have a few vacuum leaks and swap out ur afm with a known working one if u can. I got mine for $60 off of ebay.

05-23-2006, 07:35 AM
Believe me, you can get a negative pressure reading. Depends on the reference. I'm talking about overpressure compared to atmospheric pressure (1 bar). In europe, bar is more commonly used as unit, but if you want to do it right you have to use Pascal (SI). mm Hg is something from the past, but still used in the medical world.

I checked my AFM according to the BGB, that was OK. So i think i'm gonna check for leaks first and see where we get from there.