View Full Version : 2006 and the fun continues....

01-11-2006, 06:48 AM
While I was swanning around Europe, the new pistons were successfully fitted to the revised block....



... we couldn't get some ACL +1mm pistons so turned to a set of Wisecos from the US...


So, with that part completed, I could now start putting everything back together..


ARP studs fitted along with the new HG...


Oil pick-up and splash pan fitted following a few hours in the acid bath....


New crank oil seal fitted....


Due to different cams, altered CR and different pistons, a test was required to ensure that valves and pistons didn't come into contact with each other so off to the local toy shop for some...


This was then put onto the piston crowns where the valves would likely come into contact...


Once all 4 pistons had been set so they sat half way up the bores, the cylinder head could be fitted and torqued into place....


The top cam cover backing plate and lower belt cover were fitted next to ensure that the cam wheels and bottom pulley were positioned correctly....


.... prior to the cambelt being fitted....


Once everything was properly assembled, the engine was carefully turned over for a few revolutions, taking care to ensure that there was no unwanted resistance.

Then, the belt and head were removed so the doh on the pistons could be inspected. This revealed plenty of clearance between pistons and valves. Obviously a good thing....


With the doh removed, the head could be refitted. This being the current state and the end of play today...


Work prevents me from doing more until Friday morning when the rebuild will continue. Watch this space :cool:

01-11-2006, 11:39 AM
That's a 3rd gen 3SGTE, right?

01-11-2006, 12:57 PM
That is just beautiful. :D

I miss the first engine I ever built. :(

01-11-2006, 01:24 PM
Thats great Gary. Im happy that everything is working out with this rebuild thus far. I know you had some complications but it seems you worked through them all and will have a great rebuild. Keep up the good work.

01-12-2006, 08:38 AM
Managed to skive of work this arvo and managed to get quite a bit done.

Finishing off fitting the sump to the bottom of the motor...

... including a nice shiney powdercoated sump pan 8)

Genuine parts where possible. New belt and idler and tensioner wheels...

... finished off the camblet side of things...

... allowing the bottom cover to be fitted.

OE fuel rail (for now) was bolted on. As this was originally a 3SGE head, slight mods had to be made - including the injector holes which needed to be enlarged to suit the 3S-GTE injectors.

Then the inlet manifold could go on.

To the front and fitment of the alternator bracket and bling alternator :D

State at the end of the day. Loom is now partially fitted along with numerous hoses etc. Really glad I took lots of photos before I stripped the motor down :lol:



Need to adapt the cam cover slightly as I can't use the centre throttle body support due to the lack of castings etc on the n/a head. No real issues asthere is plenty of other support. Once that is done the cover can be fitted. Then, hopefully, time to fit the box. More to follow tomorrow :D

01-13-2006, 04:26 AM
Out of curiosity, why are you using a 3SGE head?

01-13-2006, 06:46 AM
Simply becuase it was available at the time.

01-13-2006, 07:08 AM
You're going to end up beating me. Bah. You seem to know what you're doing though. Looks good! Good job.

01-13-2006, 04:04 PM
That is absolutly pure sex there man...

That makes me want to fully tear down and rebuild when I swap...

01-14-2006, 06:20 AM
Quite a productive couple of days.

Turbo and manifold were fitted. Sticking with the stock items for the time being.

Note the WRC extras such as the antilag attachments...

Lightweight Fidanza flywheel was bolted on...

... followed by the Xtreme clutch kit...

Found the adjustable cam wheels I'd put somewhere 'safe' :roll:

Cams were set up last night as per the HKS spec sheet...



With that done, the cam cover could be bolted into place...

Next, the transfer case was split from the gearbox to allow it all to be bolted up to the motor...

With that done, the rest of the wiring loom was attached along with any other brackets etc...

And with the alternator, PAS and aircon drive belts on, next step is to put the complete unit back where it came from :D


01-14-2006, 06:35 AM
uber sweetness:bigthumbu

01-14-2006, 01:43 PM
nice nice nice, how much for the rebuilt?

01-15-2006, 06:47 AM
After nearly 8 weeks, it was time to put the motor/box back in. :D

Reverse of removal, simply lowered the car onto the engine....

... allowing the gearbox and cambelt end mounts to be attached - the engine then being held it place.


Then it was 'simply' a case of putting everything back together...



Planty of room with the larger Koyo rad and Kenlow fans...

Once the 'top half' was finished, the underside was pieced back together...

... and rear diff and gearbox were filled with new oil...

At this stage, all that remains to do is fill up the cooling system, WAI, bleed the brakes, fit the wheels and plug in the loom under the dash. Then it'll be the real acid test - turning the key. Until then, the car will sit like this until the morning...

Having access to a fully kitted out workshop is such a bonus ;)

01-15-2006, 07:05 AM
Start it, oh god start it. I have to know how she runs!!!

What type of break in are you gonna go with?

01-15-2006, 07:22 AM
Start it, oh god start it. I have to know how she runs!!!

What type of break in are you gonna go with?

Patience young Skywalker...

1000kms on running in oil. Then run a semi-synthetic for at least another 4k before I can start going 'hard out' with it.

01-15-2006, 04:47 PM
The break in is always the hardest part in my opinion. The entire time I am dissassembling and reassembling all I can do is make little motor and tire screeching noises in anticipation of what the car will be doing when complete. That has been true since the first engine I built 15 years ago, to now with the 318ci Dodge I will be starting on in a few weeks. There are very few sounds that are as sweet to the ear as when that fresh lump you just built with your own blood, sweat and tears comes to life. Then once it is complete and running, what do you do? Baby the living hell out of it with alternating revs, no cruising and a very very low redline for 1000 miles.

One of the best times I had was when I finished the Bracket engine for my `75 Camaro. After break in I slapped on an old set of street tires, loaded all my friends into the back seat and headed out to an old stretch of road we call 'burnout road.' It is where all the hotrodders from my hometown had gone for years to do nothing other than burnouts. The rubber is unbelievable out there. With all the weight I had in the car I never even had to take the revs above 4k. We smoked them till the tires were gone. It was pure joy.

01-16-2006, 12:57 AM
You know, there was a guy in Britain that broke his engine in on the dragstrip [ST205].
I've read differing opinions on that.
Personally, the next engine I build I'm gonna break in that way and see how it does.....

BTW, can you post a full pic of the ic?
I'm curious as to the difference between the reg ST205 and WRC ic..

01-17-2006, 06:24 AM
Turned up the next morning ready to go. Topped up the fluids - plain water in the cooling system (no glycol for the first 1000kms)

Water Wetter was added to the WAI along with sufficient water...

... and Valvoline SAE 30 API SF/CC 'Running In Oil'.

OE plugs were removed from the original fans and soldered to the new Kenlow fans and connected...

Now the time to turn the key. Fuel pump had been left disconnected following the earlier swap to an uprated aftermarket pump.

Engine was then cranked over until the oil warning light on the dash was extinguished. It was then tried a couple more times just to make sure before the pump was reconnected. Then all was ready...

Key was turned and the engine actually fired up pretty quickly and wasn't too bad on idle. It was left to get up to temp - but it was soon evident that there was a water leak. Switched off and further investigation revealed that the OE coolant spring clamps were no long doing what they were supposed to. With hindsight, these should have been swapped to jubilee clamps during the rebuild!
So, after much hassle, the coolant pipe clamps were swapped and teh system pressure tested to ensure all was as it should be.

Car was then restarted, ran for a short time and then cut out. Restarting wasn't an issue, but it just wouldn't idle - holding the revs up with the throttle open helped, but something was amiss...

As it would still run with throttle open, we drove car up the road to get a WOF and see if it'll sort itself out. No such luck. Ran even worse when you start to come onto boost. So after passing the WOF, get car back to workshop for further investigation.
Only fault code which shows up is 54 - WAI system which is cleared. Then, Air Control Valve shows problem up on the diagnostic tool which is then cleared. Still no idle. TPS is checked and found to be out so is altered to correct factory setting, but still won't idle. Checked to ensure all the plugs are attached and no obvious vac pipes etc left off.
By this time, motor is cold and when re-started, it seems to run fine. However, as soon as the temp starts to rise, the idle goes to pot once again. Ignition is spot on and good flow of fuel. Diagnostic sensor shows the 'mixture' reading as alternating between rich and lean. No more fault codes are coming up on either the diagnostic tool or the dashboard. At this stage it's getting late, so it's left until the next morning...

Tried restarting the car first thing this morning, but now it just didn't want to idle. So first thing was to whip the top cam cover off to ensure that the adjustable wheels hadn't moved. All good there. Next stop was the plugs. Pulled these out and they were all as black as a lump of soot. Hmmmm.
Put some new plugs in, fired it up and while it did run better, it still wouldn't idle - all seemed better when the revs were above around 2k. So we disconnected the map sensor and connected a vacuum pump and set it to 15mmHg and cranked the motor over. And it ran fine making us point the finger at a vacuum idle issue, possible cam related.
Rather than alter the cam timing which we knew was set up exactly as per HKS spec sheet (Inlet - 110 deg duration / Exhaust - 103 deg duration), it was decided to try altering the TPS again (previously set to factory setting). Doing this yielded an immediate result, the engine running much smoother, but still not happy under 1000rpm. So the ignition was advance by 14 degrees in total. With this done, the engine was much happier. However, blipping the throttle caused issues when the revs dropped usually resulting in a stall. To help prevent this, the throttle stop was altered to keep idle at 1000rpm.
Everything was put back together and the car taken for a spin round the block. Back to the workshop for a check of fluid levels before going out for a decent road test. No leaks were evident.
I'm pleased to say that there were no issues whatsoever. Car was extremely smooth all the way up to 5k and despite keeping away from full throttle openings, the motor felt very strong and eager to unleash a lot of torque - especially when the cams started to come into action.
It has been a very frustrating and tiresome period trying to get it running, but all is now well. Another 920kms to go before an oil change and then another 4k before the boost can be turned up. In the meantime, sensible driving and a trip to the dyno shortly to check that the fuelling is as it should be.