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ChrisD
12-29-2004, 04:27 PM
Okay most people use one of a few products to fill their engine mounts from what I can tell.


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1. From http://www.mcmaster.com/ Stock # 8644K11 Flexible Urethane Casting Compound 1 Pound Liquid, Shore A 80
In stock at $23.51 Each

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/polymotormounts3112.jpg



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2. 3m Window Weld. I emailed 3m to find out how hard this cured because no one seemed to know at all, they simply just tossed it in and decided it would be fine. They replied within 24 hours, very nice. Window weld is locally available and is roughly $10 from what I'm told.


Chris,
The shore hardness when the 08609 windo-weld is fully cured is 55-60.

Brad
3M Automotive Aftermarket Division
www.3m.com/automotive
1-877-666-2277

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/enginemounts008.jpg


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3. PL also has a line of polyurethane adhesives and sealants. I am not sure how hard these might cure to. I have heard of one person using the PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. Shore hardness rating is 90A.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/14_ImageLG_poly_prem_const.gif



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I have heard that the liquid polyurethane tends to separate from the edges over time. I am not sure if this might be due to people not cleaning the mounts off properly or not. I don't know if this separation actually transmits to any extra vibrations. Most users of either product seem happy with the final result.

Does anyone have any opinions on which product is better? Both are polyurethane. I'm not sure how much difference the extra hardness of the liquid poly urethane would make. The window weld is easier to find and easier to apply since you do not have to do any mixing.

EvilSpeeder
12-29-2004, 04:30 PM
I'm interested in this as well. I would go with the harder stuff. 55-60 shore isn't that stiff.

ChrisD
12-29-2004, 05:52 PM
Yeah I agree. I emailed PL but they won't be in the office until the 3rd of January to respond to my email.

Adrian Avgerinos
12-29-2004, 06:15 PM
I lost the PM I received from Conrad some time last year, but he had a chance to test the PL goop and found it to be right around A-80 as well.

I have used this particularly urethane with limited sucess. The correct application is critical. I have found that over the past year the urethane has cracked resulting in loss of stiffness.

BTW, shouldn't this go in the "Engineering" forum as it has nothing to do with forced induction?

Conrad_Turbo
12-29-2004, 07:16 PM
I lost the PM I received from Conrad some time last year, but he had a chance to test the PL goop and found it to be right around A-80 as well.

I have used this particularly urethane with limited sucess. The correct application is critical. I have found that over the past year the urethane has cracked resulting in loss of stiffness.

BTW, shouldn't this go in the "Engineering" forum as it has nothing to do with forced induction?
Yup I tested a sampe with a durometer from work and it basically came down to 80 Shore A. It would have been higher but it seems with the adhesive it traps a lot of air bubbles so that would bring down the durometer rating. I've had the mounts urethaned on my Celi for a year and a half now and from a general look they are fine (not cracked or falling apart), but there is some areas I can't see.

I also beefed up the motor and transmission mounts on the Starlet as well with the polyurethane adhesive and it worked quite well.

EvilSpeeder
12-29-2004, 07:27 PM
So which stuff did you use conrad?

ChrisD
12-29-2004, 07:45 PM
Interesting. Which specific kind did you use Conrad? PL has a large selection. Is it the stuff pictured?

Adrian, you say correct application is critical? Was there anything that you would do differently in the future? Did you make any mistakes that could have been avoided? Did you apply it in stages, or just fill the whole mount at once? Was it cleaned well enough?

It seems cracking has resulted from urethane of all kinds...maybe it is best to refill after a year or so if cracks appear.

I can move the thread. It's more of a "DIY" type of thread...but I'll move no worries.

ChrisD
12-29-2004, 09:23 PM
Got a reply from PL. Good news. 90 A. :)


Chris:

Thank you for your inquiry to OSI Sealants, Inc. PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive has a Shore A hardness of 90a, but may vary depending on the sample being tested. If you have further questions feel free to call 800-624-7767.

Thanks,

Don Sutliff

OSI Sealants, Inc.

ChrisD
12-29-2004, 09:25 PM
Also, does anyone know where PL products can be purchased?

Conrad_Turbo
12-29-2004, 10:39 PM
Got a reply from PL. Good news. 90 A. :) That's the durometer of the urethane itself, but with my sample I got a lot of trapped air bubbles in it...which dropped it to 80 Shore A. This is what I used (just grabbed it out of my tool box):

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/IMG_8539.jpg

If I had to do things over again I'd use the stuff from McMaster-Carr, I am not a fan of a varing shore A throughout my mounts due to air bubbles. But it is damn easy to apply, but I'd definatley use a stir stick to try and help the bubbles escape since the poly is a really high viscosity so the bubbles can't get out without some help.

Oh I got that big tube of PL from Home Depot for like $7-8...but I had to buy a damn caulking gun because I didn't have any that size (no they didn't sell smaller caulking tubes of PL). Haha.

Jigglypuff
12-29-2004, 11:24 PM
Would anyone happen to know the hardness of the stock mounts? I ask because I'm looking for an inexpensive way to rejuvenate the mounts, but at the same time I'm looking to retain a degree of comfort. The 3M Window Weld seems to be a suitable compromise for me.

Conrad_Turbo
12-29-2004, 11:29 PM
Would anyone happen to know the hardness of the stock mounts? I ask because I'm looking for an inexpensive way to rejuvenate the mounts, but at the same time I'm looking to retain a degree of comfort. The 3M Window Weld seems to be a suitable compromise for me.
Well if anyone wants the durometer of something tested I can do it, just send me a sample (size of a quarter) in a letter and I can give you the durometer of it.

I am not sure the durometer of the OEM mounts though...never did think to check that. I'm guessing around 70ish, but then it's got gaping voids so that has to be something to consider as well.

ChrisD
12-30-2004, 01:37 AM
I just got back from Home Depot. I bought the PL adhesive, the exact stuff that conrad posted the pic of. In terms of price, it was less than $4 (canadian) for a 310mL tube (they had both small and large). I got two, plus a caulking gun all for $11. Not bad at all. :bigthumbu

Lagos
12-30-2004, 04:14 AM
this is the same stuff i bought about a month ago. never got around to doing the mounts because of the cold weather. let me know how it works out for you guys.

there is also one guy on mr2oc that makes poly mount inserts. i talked to him before and he said he would make them for us, as long as we can send our mounts to him so that he can make a prototype. so if anyone has some spare mounts, let me know.

ChrisD
12-30-2004, 04:42 PM
Isn't this the stuff you bought? I'm not sure if it is rated at the same shore hardness. You could email PL to find out.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/polyurathane.JPG

If I can manage to pull my motor mounts tomorrow morning without freezing my balls off I'll get it started, but if not this will wait a bit. I'll probably do it in layers, and try to eliminate any air bubbles I can in the process.

The mount inserts are nice, but the price is way to expensive to justify them, especially when this adhesive is only $4 a tube. Plus they aren't completely solid, there will still be some air spaces.

I'll take pics and keep everything updated as I move along with this. I'll also be doing my rear diff mount at the same time.

Hooligan
12-30-2004, 07:23 PM
If any of you have access to any sort of vibrational device (random orbital sander, vibratory polisher), you could set the mount on top of it while you are filling it. My mother is a dentist and they use a technique similar to this when they are trying to get all of the bubbles out of the castings they make of people's teeth (a kind of plaster that is later used to make mouthguards, etc). I'd put a random orbital in a vise without a pad on it and then set a piece of plywood on top of it, and then fill the mount on top of that.

Worth at try...

Adrian Avgerinos
12-30-2004, 09:19 PM
Chris, as Conrad mentioned, my concern would be the bubbles, and probably the fact that the finished layer should have been thicker:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/fa9e88a9.jpg

I like Dave's idea of vibrating the bubbles out though. Somewhat intriguing.

Conrad_Turbo
12-30-2004, 09:36 PM
The only concern is that the PL is so thick, I am not even sure if vibrating the part would get the bubbles out. When I poly'd the mounts on the Starlet I made sure to gloop a little bit, then stir it to help some of the bubbles escape, then add more PL and repeat over and over till I finished. I don't think there is much more that could be done.

The vibration technique would be cool to try though, maybe it would work.

nuclearhappines
01-07-2005, 07:03 PM
adrian

that's the exact same stuff i used on the vr4 mounts. let them sit for a week before you install...

mine still felt mushy on day 3... by the end of the week they are rock hard now.

Never got a chance to install them :( ... since the vr4 is dead and all.

I plan on doing this on my next car though (hopefully an NA 6th gen project)...

edit: another advantage i see to filling your mounts over using inserts is that if you can make sure that you know exactly where the pin goes in the middle of the mount, you can gut the entire mount and fill it ALL with urethane making it very stiff.

-nuke

Celexa GT
01-13-2005, 06:20 AM
Pardon my ignorance guys, but what are the pros and cons of filling my motor mounts?

Hooligan
01-13-2005, 05:20 PM
Pros: improved engine/throttle response
Cons: possibly some extra vibration

Rick89GTS
01-15-2005, 02:49 AM
I just got back from Home Depot. I bought the PL adhesive, the exact stuff that conrad posted the pic of. In terms of price, it was less than $4 (canadian) for a 310mL tube (they had both small and large). I got two, plus a caulking gun all for $11. Not bad at all. :bigthumbu

Nice research Chris.
I' ll have to remember this thread when my rear diff mount goes out.

EvilSpeeder
01-18-2005, 08:15 PM
I'm getting ready to try this. I'm thinking about trying it with the mounts in the car. Comments on this approach? What did you guys do to clean them before you put the stuff on?

Conrad_Turbo
01-18-2005, 08:42 PM
The Celi set I just washed it with soap and water, scuffed it up with some sand paper then wiped it down with solvent and let it dry. Then I started glooping in the adhesive and did one side at a time.

The Starlet I sandblasted the rubber and wiped it down with solvent and went right to caulking.

Edit: Also once the caulking is dried spray it with an undercoating spray, it covers up the majority of the imperfections and makes it look 100x better.

gt_turbo
01-19-2005, 01:49 AM
do u have to gut the mounts completely of the stock rubber then fill it all up with poly urethane? also with the liquid stuff, how do you even keep the liquid inside the mounts.

1993CelGT
01-20-2005, 05:00 AM
so all you have to do is clean and gut the insides of the motor mounts scuff them up then fill them with the caulking stuff and its almost like having solid motor mounts? also is it a possibility of using fiberglass instead of the PL because i know fiberglass gets really hard so just a suggestion i am not to sure on how storng the PL is in comparison to fiberglass

Conrad_Turbo
01-20-2005, 03:07 PM
so all you have to do is clean and gut the insides of the motor mounts scuff them up then fill them with the caulking stuff and its almost like having solid motor mounts? also is it a possibility of using fiberglass instead of the PL because i know fiberglass gets really hard so just a suggestion i am not to sure on how storng the PL is in comparison to fiberglass

Fiberglass will crack and disintigrate. Use the PL adhesive and just fill in your OEM mounts. If you want solid...get 2 metal plates with a hole drilled in either, remove the rubber from your mounts, weld in the plates. Haha. Some flex and damping is a good thing, the PL will do more than you need.

DBM
01-21-2005, 04:31 AM
on my MKI MR2 racecar, I used two part urethane that cures to a shore A hardness of 90A. The urethane that i used is intended for automotive bushings, so it is good stuf. :) We go through 3 45 gallon drums of the stuff every two weeks at my work.
On some of the mouns that I have filled, I just cleaned the ruber, sealed of the back of the mount, and filled it. Let is stand for about 15 minutes to give the bubbles time to rise to the surface, and pop the bubles with a heat gun.
Some fo the mounts tha tI've done, I completely removed all of the soft OEM rubber and filled the mounts completely with urethane. On my guted race car, there was sooo much engine vibration transmitted into the car, it was almost unbearable at 80-100kph, although I only drove the car on the street once (it was a race car afterall....no bumpers or lights). The drone inside of the car was insane! however, with full interior and sound deadenning material in place, it would have been much more bearable.

EvilSpeeder
01-21-2005, 02:44 PM
What kind of stuff did you use?

DBM
01-25-2005, 08:21 PM
What kind of stuff did you use?

Cytec Conathane TU-89MF is what we currently use. In the past we used to use Conap.

Punisher
02-22-2005, 04:46 AM
I've used 3M window weld 4 times now and it works excellent.. If you layer it it cures pretty fast.. I completely fill my mounts in.. everything gets filled in.. all the nooks and crannies.. everything.. so it looks the the entire mount is just 1 solid piece.. It's hard.. yet it's soft enough that it will still take vibrations and it really lasts. It's also soft in a way that it won't easily tear.. it won't rip apart.. etc etc. The key is just to layer it.. or else you'll wait over 24hrs for it to properly cure.

nuclearhappines
02-22-2005, 06:12 AM
Pros: improved engine/throttle response

more importantly on a FWD car... this usually helps prevent wheel hop, making you able to launch higher,harder, more consistenetly.

-nuke

Adrian Avgerinos
02-22-2005, 06:09 PM
so all you have to do is clean and gut the insides of the motor mounts scuff them up then fill them with the caulking stuff and its almost like having solid motor mounts? also is it a possibility of using fiberglass instead of the PL because i know fiberglass gets really hard so just a suggestion i am not to sure on how storng the PL is in comparison to fiberglass

It's the wrong application for fiberglass. It does not abosrb vibration well, if at all. By most accounts, it's a rather brittle material. Similarly, you wouldn't want to make a strut tower brace out concrete even though concrete is hard.

All4Traction
02-24-2005, 01:58 AM
I used black window sealer polyurethane from Partsource on my escort. It worked great, took a while to dry though since I filled it all in all at 1 time.

Punisher
02-24-2005, 03:08 AM
I've used 3M window weld 4 times now and it works excellent.. If you layer it it cures pretty fast.. I completely fill my mounts in.. everything gets filled in.. all the nooks and crannies.. everything.. so it looks the the entire mount is just 1 solid piece.. It's hard.. yet it's soft enough that it will still take vibrations and it really lasts. It's also soft in a way that it won't easily tear.. it won't rip apart.. etc etc. The key is just to layer it.. or else you'll wait over 24hrs for it to properly cure.

what I said

ChrisD
02-24-2005, 03:38 AM
Window weld will definitely work fine, but it is quite a bit softer than some of the other polyurethane substances listed above.

ChrisD
03-07-2005, 04:59 PM
A quick update on my mounts, now installed. No complaints!

http://www.gtfour.ca/poly/Cnv0010.jpg

http://www.gtfour.ca/poly/Cnv0011.jpg

http://www.gtfour.ca/poly/Cnv0012.jpg

Aust162
03-11-2005, 01:38 AM
I just did my front g/box mount on my 3sgte fwd swap and i'm waiting for it to cure. I used a product called Sikaflex 227 polyurethane and i filled the whole mount up with it.

Another reason why i'm doing this is because when i let my foot off the gas the motor moves so much the g/box knocks on the crossmember. I know that with this much movement in the mounts, its got to be robbing me of torque + i'm sick of the knocking noise:)

question; When the stuff is curing is it better to leave it in the shade in a cold place? in the sun? whats better to help speed the process up.

Conrad_Turbo
03-11-2005, 06:31 AM
Chris, now spray a layer of undercoating over your mounts, it makes them look a million times better. :D

Platinum92GTS
03-11-2005, 08:34 AM
how long will this stuff last??...I cant believe i just bought a friggin mount for like 80 bucks cdn....sweet jesus i think im gonna have to do this when i can get some time off work haha.

I guess in the 5th gen well 5sfe engines it would only really benifit to fill the front and back mount right?....like the left and right mounts dont take a whole lot of abuse do they?

G-man
09-29-2005, 07:54 PM
Chris:

What is this picture? I am having a hard time orienting myself to where this part is.

http://www.gtfour.ca/poly/Cnv0010.jpg

All4Traction
09-29-2005, 08:07 PM
Thats the rear diff. mount

Adrian Avgerinos
09-29-2005, 08:16 PM
how long will this stuff last??...I cant believe i just bought a friggin mount for like 80 bucks cdn....sweet jesus i think im gonna have to do this when i can get some time off work haha.

I guess in the 5th gen well 5sfe engines it would only really benifit to fill the front and back mount right?....like the left and right mounts dont take a whole lot of abuse do they?

Not long enough. Mine cracked after a year or so and the stiffness has been reduced greatly. It's a cheap fix, but don't expect it to work forever.

elektrateq
12-04-2005, 12:07 PM
so.... all a stock motor mount is is rubber inbetween metal? Mine are bad and need to be replaced because there is alot of vibration plus a nice popping sound when i shift gears (manual). The rubber on the left and right mounts are beginning to crack. Can I fill them in to fix them?

If the polyurethane cracks in a yr or so... could I just apply more?

I could stand a small increase in vibration over stock in order to get better response but I don't want alot more...

G-man
12-04-2005, 12:14 PM
I just filled my front and rear in with the McMasters stuff. Its actually about $29 with shipping but what a great mod! The extra vibration is barely noticable yet the engine slop is completely gone. I highly recommend that you use something Shore A80 or lower if you are worried about vibrations. I estimate that since I just filled mine in without removing the stock rubber, I am probably closer to about Shore A75.

Punisher
12-04-2005, 09:15 PM
Uerathane cures VIA an evaporation process.. so a little bit of heat will help.. also layering it in will help.

elektrateq
12-05-2005, 08:24 AM
I went to Lowe's today and found tubes of the PL premium (90 shore), a tube of the window weld (55-60), and of Roof and Flashing Sealant... which we don't know the shore of yet (pictured here (http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/poly_sealants/poly_sealants.asp) . There was also a small tube of the 90 shore with a screw cap... seems like id be easy to apply.

I would like to find a 75 to 80 shore product that i could spend a couple bucks on and buy locally... I'll go to the hardware store tommorrow... anyone have any other ideas?

Also... what seems better, a tube and a caulk gun or the liquid with the activator?

Punisher
12-06-2005, 05:18 AM
i'd caulk it

G-man
12-08-2005, 03:03 AM
I went to Lowe's today and found tubes of the PL premium (90 shore), a tube of the window weld (55-60), and of Roof and Flashing Sealant... which we don't know the shore of yet (pictured here (http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/poly_sealants/poly_sealants.asp) . There was also a small tube of the 90 shore with a screw cap... seems like id be easy to apply.

I would like to find a 75 to 80 shore product that i could spend a couple bucks on and buy locally... I'll go to the hardware store tommorrow... anyone have any other ideas?

Also... what seems better, a tube and a caulk gun or the liquid with the activator?

Don't cheap out. Get the Mcmasters stuff. Its $29 and it works PERFECTLY.

elektrateq
12-08-2005, 06:40 AM
ok next musing... I googled and found someone who cut all the rubber out and filled it with urethane and used an adhesive promoter. Toyota mounts last for years... I wonder how long a home made mount will last... and if it's safe.

Does anyone really know what the shore of the stock mounts is?

G-man
12-08-2005, 02:15 PM
I don't know but I think I remember reading 55 somewhere.

Lagos
12-08-2005, 09:36 PM
i ended up using the PL stuff and it worked out quiet well. it was very cheap, easy to apply and i get no shaking from the car. tho, i only did the rear mount, im wishing i had done the front too, because i loved the difference the mounts make.

this is what i used
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/14_ImageLG_poly_prem_const.gif

wear rubber gloves when you apply this stuff. it has all kinds of skin caner warnings on the bottle. clean the mounts very well so that there is no dirt or grease on them. then just shoot it in, nice and even, with a caulk gun. allow about 4-7days for the poly to fully dry. each day youll noticed it getting harder and harder. also, dont remove any of the factory rubber, just shoot this in around it.

here is how mine came out . it would probably look best if i had painted them with black paint, but its the rear mount and i didnt have any paint handy, so i didnt really care.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/6/8/polyfilledmotormount.JPG

partyball
12-08-2005, 11:55 PM
Wow looks nice. I'm considering doin this with my car soon.

Mister2T
12-11-2005, 04:08 AM
I done it to mine today, and lagos will they be rock hard when fully dried?

Mister2T
12-17-2005, 07:07 AM
there is a bolt that goes through the mount and attaches it to the tranny, well that part is slotted is there a particular spot that has to be at?
__________________

elektrateq
12-18-2005, 09:37 AM
weren't you paying attention?!?! hehe. prolly.

Mister2T
12-18-2005, 01:30 PM
damn someone finally responded but didnt answer....

Griffin90ST
12-18-2005, 07:23 PM
If you guys want a tip on making those look better, read the fine print and see what that stuff is soluble with (ie, Cleans up with..). Probally paint thinner, maybe warm water. Anyways, get a little 1" foam brush, dip it in whatever it calls for, and smooth out those surfaces. Kinda looks like cake frosting unworked, doesn't it? I've done alot of caulking with different materials, it's not hard to do, and will look closer to OEM. Getting rid of the rough edges will make it easier to keep debris free, won't catch oil/engine fluids that may cause them to crack/erode as quick.

sweet mod!!

Lagos
12-18-2005, 08:14 PM
there is a bolt that goes through the mount and attaches it to the tranny, well that part is slotted is there a particular spot that has to be at?
__________________


yes they dry rock hard, but it takes about 4days or more for that to happen.

i dont really understand your question. there are bolt holes that the bolts go through. dont fill them or dont let them move from their original location. you basically just fill around them and dont remove the original rubber

Lagos
12-18-2005, 08:16 PM
to make them look better....you coul sand the poly smooth after it has dried and paint them black. i didnt bother because its the rear mount that no one will ever see

Mister2T
12-19-2005, 04:26 AM
lagos, i already filled mine in im talking about when installing the mount, you bolt it to the cross member then there is a bolt that goes through a piece of metal on the tranny and in the mount and throw to the other peice of metal on the tranny. That piece that hooks to the bolt that is bolted to the tranny is adjustable, how should I have it adjusted?

MooseKnuckle
12-20-2005, 08:59 AM
Don't cheap out. Get the Mcmasters stuff. Its $29 and it works PERFECTLY.
What exactly is this product called from McMCarr? I was thinking of ordering today at work.

G-man
12-20-2005, 12:22 PM
What exactly is this product called from McMCarr? I was thinking of ordering today at work.

Go to the McMaster website:

McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/index.asp)

Type this product number into the search function:

8644K11

Good luck.

Lagos
12-20-2005, 07:54 PM
lagos, i already filled mine in im talking about when installing the mount, you bolt it to the cross member then there is a bolt that goes through a piece of metal on the tranny and in the mount and throw to the other peice of metal on the tranny. That piece that hooks to the bolt that is bolted to the tranny is adjustable, how should I have it adjusted?

i dont think it matters... just bolt it down.

kirkosaurus
12-28-2005, 05:00 AM
The mount inserts are nice, but the price is way to expensive to justify them, especially when this adhesive is only $4 a tube. Plus they aren't completely solid, there will still be some air spaces.



Not true. The inserts completely fill all spaces in the rubber of the mount.
And pricey? Many have said that $50 for the set is a bargain compared to the price most manufacturers charge for urethane motor mounts.

The differences between Window weld and our urethane inserts are night and day.
Window weld is made for just that: windows.
It is not designed for moving/vibrating parts like motor mounts.
Sure, you be able to get a cheap tube of this stuff and easily fill your mounts but how long will it last?
Another thing is it's not reversible. If you decide you don't want filled mounts you are out a couple of mounts. The inserts can be removed at any time.
Our urethane inserts are made with professional grade urethane (made by a company that produces urethane wheels for tow motors, conveyor belts, etc), are vacuumed to remove nitrogen and are baked in an oven. Window weld is not.

I'm not trying to push our inserts (we haven't finished developement on the Alltrac inserts yet anyway) but just saying that you can't compare then to goo you squirt out of a tube.

Lagos
12-28-2005, 05:22 AM
hope youll start making some for the whole celica comunity soon!

kirkosaurus
12-30-2005, 03:22 AM
hope youll start making some for the whole celica comunity soon!

I actually got a sample of one of the mounts today. :)

Rick89GTS
12-30-2005, 04:09 AM
How's it look? Pics?

kirkosaurus
12-30-2005, 04:30 AM
http://home.comcast.net/~kirkosaurus2/Alltrac-inserts-001.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kirkosaurus2/Alltrac-inserts-002.jpg

KoreanJoey
01-21-2006, 07:42 AM
PM sent.

RallyK
01-25-2006, 08:18 PM
Also, does anyone know where PL products can be purchased?

I know we don't have it at NAPA. Saves you a trip?

ChrisD
01-26-2006, 05:53 PM
Good points. ;) It was my understanding at the time I wrote that, that the inserts were not available specifically for the Celicas.

Much cheaper than new mounts, or any full mount set up, thats for sure!

Glad to see you on the board!

Chris


Not true. The inserts completely fill all spaces in the rubber of the mount.
And pricey? Many have said that $50 for the set is a bargain compared to the price most manufacturers charge for urethane motor mounts.

The differences between Window weld and our urethane inserts are night and day.
Window weld is made for just that: windows.
It is not designed for moving/vibrating parts like motor mounts.
Sure, you be able to get a cheap tube of this stuff and easily fill your mounts but how long will it last?
Another thing is it's not reversible. If you decide you don't want filled mounts you are out a couple of mounts. The inserts can be removed at any time.
Our urethane inserts are made with professional grade urethane (made by a company that produces urethane wheels for tow motors, conveyor belts, etc), are vacuumed to remove nitrogen and are baked in an oven. Window weld is not.

I'm not trying to push our inserts (we haven't finished developement on the Alltrac inserts yet anyway) but just saying that you can't compare then to goo you squirt out of a tube.

SilverCel
01-26-2006, 06:14 PM
If you have mounts in the making, I'll surly buy a set from you.

You can be assured i'd be your first customer as soon as you get them for the 5sfe.

I was going to drop a crapload of money on a set of all the mounts this paycheck.

kirkosaurus
01-26-2006, 06:25 PM
A set was sent to a tester and they should be installing them this weekend.
Once I know they fit well more will be made imediately!

SilverCel
01-26-2006, 08:08 PM
Any idea if the 3SGTE/5SFE can share mounts?

Sean
01-27-2006, 02:06 AM
Nope, they are different.

kirkosaurus
01-27-2006, 03:07 AM
Any idea if the 3SGTE/5SFE can share mounts?

On the MR2, yes. Don't know about the Celica.

SilverCel
02-05-2006, 08:26 PM
TTT

Hows them mounts coming?

kirkosaurus
02-05-2006, 08:51 PM
They are done and I'm open for orders.
All info can be found on my Urethane motor mount insert page (http://home.comcast.net/~kirkosaurus2/MR2_urethane_inserts.html).

SilverCel
02-07-2006, 11:58 PM
Will you be making these for the 5sfe also

mtp_69_i
02-28-2006, 07:30 AM
or for the 3SFE? Shipping to Australia?

KoreanJoey
02-28-2006, 09:46 AM
Um yeah, trying to figure out if which mounts work for the 5SFE in the celica.

kirkosaurus
08-08-2006, 01:46 AM
Will you be making these for the 5sfe also

They are now available for the 6th Gen Celica with the 5SFE.