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Luni
12-26-2004, 04:39 AM
Yep. My voltage regulator or alternator is dead. Battery light is always on unless im revved over 5500 rpm. I put a digital multimeter on there and it reads anywhere from 9 to 13 volts, seen as high as 20 volts on a spike. usually that means the voltage regulator is dead. Oh well monday I will take care of it. Alternator in an MR2 is the biggest pain in the ass.

Mister2T
12-27-2004, 01:41 AM
Yep. My voltage regulator or alternator is dead. Battery light is always on unless im revved over 5500 rpm. I put a digital multimeter on there and it reads anywhere from 9 to 13 volts, seen as high as 20 volts on a spike. usually that means the voltage regulator is dead. Oh well monday I will take care of it. Alternator in an MR2 is the biggest pain in the ass.
Exactly what everyone says, Have fun doing so. :bigthumbu

Dr.Auto
12-27-2004, 05:40 AM
advice for easily removing alternator from car. Remove engine assembly then remove aalternator! :hehe:
J/K

Are you sure it's not just brushes worn down? Does the brake light come on too? Can you tap on the alternator and get it to charge normally intermittantly? Because a bruck kit only costs about $15 from toyota. and you only have 4 nuts and 2 screws to remove on the alternator to replace the brushes.

Luni
12-27-2004, 11:50 PM
Nah Im just gonna do it all.

Local shop here will rebuild and wind it up to about 80-90 amp for me, for 100 bux vs paying 200 for a toyota one plus core charge. So tomorrow drop car off at mechanic (too fucking cold and not enough time to work on it myself) go to breakfast, come back, grab alternator (should be off by then) take it to alternator shop, get it done, then take it back and have mechanic reinstall - total price shouldnt exceed 200 bux which is what they want for a new one, and this way Im supportin a local shop.

I will post results when it is done.

Luni
12-29-2004, 09:02 PM
Alternator rebuilt - dude said he coudlnt take it past 74 amps but he put all the high current circuitry in there so it should be good.

The reason why it was dead was cause it had been saturated in oil (seems I spill a little every time I put some oil in lol. My bad.

Blackcloud
12-29-2004, 11:38 PM
lol.. smooth one

85gtsblackman
12-30-2004, 04:51 AM
although most of the time amp just needs new bushings or whatever the lil pad things are called, its like a 10 dollar kit

Luni
12-30-2004, 05:28 PM
so somebody fucked up.

the damn thing charges throughout the range but my alt dash lights flicker when I rev the engine past 3500 rpm or so... Theres a problem with the alternator still, and all the MR2 guys advised against rebuilidng for this reason.

I think the impedance, or voltage, or whatever of the voltage regulator doesnt match what the stock one puts out, so it triggers a light in my dash. But in reality it seems to be working properly.. Shit just pisses me off tho. It should just work. Im at work, got Jeremys M3 and hes taking care of my car, gonna take it to the rebuild shop and make them fix it or refund my moolah.

Luni
12-30-2004, 05:59 PM
So the shop notices a failure at high rpms too. They will redo everything on monday.

ChrisD
12-30-2004, 06:08 PM
Shitty. At least they are fixing things. If I would have seen this earlier I would have told you to try to punch in this part # at Toyota that I have for the Caldina alternator (100A).

Not sure how well it fits in an MR2, but is apparently a fairly easy upgrade on the Celica. But I haven't found out the price or availability in North America.

Here it is in case people are interested in the future:

ST215 12V 100A
The part # 27060-74720

Luni
12-30-2004, 07:25 PM
I could have put a 100 amp alt in, but Id have had to change the mounting bracket and the pulley.

Luni
01-03-2005, 05:21 PM
So I didnt even have the shop fix it, start the car up today, and the fucker works just fine.

Pisses me off.

Arrr.