View Full Version : installing koni adjustables

10-27-2005, 04:41 PM
Hey guys, the 3s swap is very close to being done, the engine was suppose to be dropped in yesterday but my mechanic got a sudden illeness (caugh caugh yea right)...so..in the meantime ive decided to try and get theese shocks on my car but the instructions that came with them arent too great. Im wondering if anyone on this board has put them onto their car or knows of a write up that is out on how to do it. The part that makes me nervous is drilling and cutting the shock housing for the rears. Also, if there are any detailed instructions on how to install a camber kit that would be nice too, i pretty much know how, but if there are more detailed instructions, or a write up, it would be a great help. Im sick of wearing through tires with theese damn ground controls :(

Thanks alot guys


psobtw: the instructions for the konis dont even come with words, it is nothing but pictures.. :ugh:

10-27-2005, 04:46 PM
i heard that... i put my camber kit in (only the front one fit god only knows why) and it still seems bad, plus the instructions were so vauge i had to look all over online to even figure out which hole to put it in and i just guessed on where to turn it to... and i dont wanna go get an alignment cause my tires are almost gone need new ones... plus like yourself i need new shocks and dont want stock crap because my car is lowered also... plz help

10-27-2005, 09:07 PM
you install them just like oem.

1-spring should be compressed (use proper spring compressing tool)
2-place spring over strut (refer to note #1)
3-place upper perch on top of spring (refer to note # 2)
4-bolt upper perch to strut
-viola !!

2 notes

1 - the spring perch on the strut has a notch in it, thats where the butt end of the spring should sit, right against it.

2 - the upper perch has an arrow that says "OUT", that should line up with the strut to knuckle bolt holes (2).

Make sure both instances in the notes stay the way they're mentioned while tightening upper perch nut !!


If you are using lowering springs, its may become even trickier to keep the to instances in the notes lined up. The fact of the matter is, the OEM spring opens when you take off the comprssor, keeping pressure between the two perches. If you are using shortened springs, then the spring won't open up enough to apply pressure to both perches.


-Drill 2 holes in the lower perch and 2 in the upper perch in places where they WON'T be covered by the spring once installed. Make sure the holes are as much on oppsite sides of the strut as possible. (ie. strut tube should be as close to center of these two holes as possible, much like your ears are on either side of your head)

-Have on hand 8 Extra Heavy Duty Wire Tie Straps (250lb strength)

-Lay the spring on the perch to find a clear place to drill. Repeat for upper perch. Drill your holes in perches on both struts and upper perches.

-Proceed to step #2, once spring is positioned on lower perch where you were told, put wire tie straps through hole and around spring, close strap and trim excess, reapeat for other side.

-Proceed to step #3, do the same, put wire tie strap through hole, close strap and trim excess, repeat on other side.

-Proceed to step #4



10-27-2005, 09:26 PM
Using strut cartridges.

First thing is first. Don't be nervous or scared you will make a mistake.

This is a VERY simple procedure.

First step is to drill a drain hole in the strut to drain fluid. Pick a spot, any spot above the perch that suits you , making sure the strut is in a vice and secure. And be sure you are wearing protective eye ware and there is nothing of value close by incase fluid should spray. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit, prefferobly a sharp one. Proceed to drill, might be a good idea to dimple a spot so the bit stays in place. Use a bucket (or whatever) to catch fluid.

Step 2 is to cut the strut top off. Cut it as close to the lower spring perch as possible, keeping in mind you want the perch to stay where it is. You can use a hack saw, grinder with cutting disc, die grinder, hell, even a dremel if thats all you got.

Step 3 is to clean up the cut edge. Use grinder, or file, steel wool, whatever you got to smooth it out.

Step 4 Place cartridge in carcus of old tube. The strut has a threaded rod at the end so you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the old tube, at center, to accomidate this rod. It will be used to BOLT the new tube inot the old one.

Step 5 Follow steps in my other tutorial above !!!!

10-27-2005, 09:34 PM
Using 5th gen Camber bolts

Front Camber Bolts go in the upper hole located on the strut to knuckle bolts (2)
- Simple enough to install. Jack up car, remove front tires, remove upper bolt, replace with camber bolt, tighten with included nuts and washers, replace tires.

Rear Bolts introduce the camber bolt with buldge facing towards the wheel in the upper bolt hole of the strut to knuckle holes (2), tighten with air tools. (Give thanx to Louis C)

Last step with these bolts is to take the car to a reliable shop that does alignment and have them align the car properly. These bolts do NOTHING without a proper machine alignment.

10-28-2005, 01:28 AM
HUGE HELP!!..Awesome man..thank is amazing!! you basically walked me through the instructions word for word. Im glad that this is a pretty straight forward and easy install becuase right now, i really dont wanna spend the cash to have some one do this, plus i love learning this stuff anyways! Thanks man, can say it enough, thank you!

A few questions though

On the front shocks, after the old cartridge has been removed, and before you put the new shock cartidge in, koni shows a jug pouring 50 ml of a liquid in there with a snowflake next to it. Am i suppose to ad antifreeze into where the shock cartidge sits?

Also, i have the ground control coilovers, and right now there are all the way down (-2.5")..would it make the instalation easier if the coilovers were all the way up to stock height when doing this, and then return them down to the 2.5" drop?...or do u think that i am still going to have to drill into the perches in order to keep the spring and the perches aligned?..also is it ok if the coilover moves as long as the perches are still alligned?...as far as i know my coilovers can rotate freely sometimes (maybe just because me shocks are so blown??)...thanks again for all of your help!!

Luis C
10-28-2005, 06:26 AM
When looking at your car from the under-rear you will see 4 arms coming from your tires to your undercarridge. The one (on each side) closest to the rear of the vehicle are the 2 you are concerned with. Jack up the car only high enough to take pressure off your rear tires (tires hovering just above ground). You have to pop off the 2 rubber covers to access to the nuts(these nuts SHOULD be welded in place). Remove the OEM bolt and replace it with the new one (both sides). Use all included washers.

HUH...? :wtf: Those nuts (under the rubber covers) are not meant for adjust camber (it's 1:30 AM, cant remember if its for caster or convergence) and depending on your camber kit you would have to remove the upper bolt on each rear strut, introduce the camber bolt with the metal thinggy on it facing towards the wheel, tighten a little, check camber, dial in camber as needed and then finish tightning with air tools.

10-28-2005, 06:32 AM
the four arms control caster!

don't fuck around w/ those bolts!

10-28-2005, 12:34 PM
I don't know anything about that type of coilover, sorry !!

11-01-2005, 06:10 PM
Using strut cartridges.

First thing is first. Don't be nervous or scared you will make a mistake.

This is a VERY simple procedure.

Step 2 is to cut the strut top off. Cut it as close to the lower spring perch as possible, keeping in mind you want the perch to stay where it is. You can use a hack saw, grinder with cutting disc, die grinder, hell, even a dremel if thats all you got.

The Front Struts, have an unscrewable top! Do not CUT, unscrew with a big enough crescent wrench or a plumbers wrench. The rear you do cut!

11-01-2005, 08:09 PM
The struts that were on my car didn't have an unscrewable top, sorry, didn't even realize that existed. Good tip !!!!!

11-01-2005, 09:06 PM
The front struts should always have a screwable top, at least the us spec. I prefer using the giant plumbers wrench to uncrew it. Front will be easy to do, the rears are not, too bad koni didnt just make a whole strut with shock like kyb rears, kind of stupid if you ask me.

11-02-2005, 12:47 AM
I found a simpler method for removing the gland nuts on the front struts -- a big vise and a long bar.

Turn the strut upside down, placing it into the vise so that the vise holds the gland nut. Take the long bar, and insert it through the bolt holes where the strut normally attaches to the knuckle. Allows a lot of leverage, and almost no chance of significantly damaging the gland nut or piston rod, since there's no wrench to slip off.

Helps to wrap the rod in cardboard just for safety's sake, and to have someone brace the piston so it doesn't tip as it's turned.

Just be careful to only break the nut loose, since you then have to worry about the oil leaking out.

11-02-2005, 08:11 AM
Your method, may, mis-allign the bolt mounts.

11-03-2005, 04:12 AM
As a side note, when you buy front struts from your Toyota dealer for the 5th gens, they are KYB and they DO come with a perch, I don't know why KYB doesn't sell the front struts in GR-2 form with perches

11-03-2005, 04:21 AM
Dude, this is very simple, none of these guys gets it.

Just pay to have it done. :P Yea its lame, and I'd do that stuff myself too but my garage sucks... lol