View Full Version : paint questions

10-19-2005, 07:14 AM
ok, i had my celica repainted about 5-7 months ago. its a custom paint. the guy that buffed it did a shitty job. under streetlights u can see swirl marks and where he buffed it u can see "fogged" spots over the car.
it also has a bunch of small scratches on it. i can't feel them.
Would a buff job help? I heard from somewhere that after 6 months after a new paint job the car will need wetsanded and buffed, or just buffed.

I wash it about 1-2 a week, use quick detailer. sometimes i use 3M Hand Glaze(awesome stuff)

really just wanting to know if buffing the car would get rid of alot of the lil scratches.
if so, anyone know what a good price would be for a complete buff?

10-19-2005, 07:38 AM
Yes it would help. What buffing does is it takes off a small layer of paint off the top, therefore making it flat and removing the swirls. As long as the scratches aren't deep buffing will take car off them. Just get someone that's experienced to do it this time, since it can be easy to burn through the clearcoat if someone doesn't know what he's doing.

Not sure what the price would be, never went to a detailing shop.

10-19-2005, 10:46 PM
OR you can invest a little money -- US$200 is more than sufficient -- and have the equipment and supplies necessary to keep your new paint looking good damn near forever.

A proper cleaning, polishing and waxing job will get rid of most swirl marks and even most scratches. Spend $100 on a dual-action polisher (aka random orbit polisher) and another $100 on car care products. You can restore utterly faded paint to near factory finish, and then you have the equipment to keep it that way.

Short list:
Porter Cable 7424 or similar random-orbital (near impossible to burn paint with foam pads on a random orbital, while a rotary buffer can eat paint in the hands of someone inexperienced)
3 foam 6" polishing pads (one for cleaning, one for polishing, and one to use under the buffing bonnets)
foam 6" waxing/finishing pad
4-10 microfibre cloths (preferably waffle weave)
3 microfibre buffing bonnets (use to remove wax and buff car)
paint clay (removes bonded particles, such as brake dust)
a quick detailer spray (use to lubricate clay application)
aggressive polish with diminishing abrasives (e.g. Meguiar's #83 dual-action cleaner-polish, used to get rid of scratches and bad swirl marks -- use rarely)
mild polish with diminishing abrasives (e.g. Meguiar's #9 swirl remover, or #82 swirl-free polish, used to get rid of mild swirl marks, restore gloss after using aggressive polish)
a good sealant or wax (e.g Meguiar's NXT wax, P21S carnauba wax, or Klasse sealant glaze, used to maintain finish achieved by polishing)

If the paint is really bad, a cutting compound, which is a really aggressive polish, can be used, then followed by the polish steps I listed above. You can also use a compounding pad, but that's best left to experienced users.

Best thing to do is visit someplace like www.autopia.org or meguiarsonline.com where car detailing is discussed in detail. Take a browse through their Autopia's Learn section. A lot of the time, repainting isn't as necessary as people think.

Just remember, to properly maintain a finish after you get it painted, you'd have to buy a lot of this stuff anyway.