View Full Version : Project Engine Build Down

12-18-2004, 08:24 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 1

Well, i started pulling down the engine today, as much as i would like to say that i've had success, i havn't.

Tried to pull the gearbox off today, what a struggle and a half. In the process of removing all the relevent bolts, i managed to slip and slice my thumb wide open, leaving half my nail on my finger, and blood everywhere. I tell you what, i've shed more blood for this car, then i did for my ex-girlfriend. And they both frustrate me to no ends.

Dad and I tried for 2 hours trying to seperate the gearbox and engine. Tried spectrals trick, but it didn't work, tried using screw drivers to wedge it out, didn't do anything but damage stuff. Although the engine did wiggle. Not much though. We even played tug of war with the engine, didn't budge either.

I've either missed a bolt (i've checked about 50 times already, i've got everything) or i'm not trying hard enough.


12-18-2004, 08:25 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 2

After thinking about it all day at work, at possible scenarios, i came home with a new wind in my sails to hopefully pull the sucker off.

It turns out, in all my frustration, i had missed one bolt. The one hiding right underneath the transfer case (Spectral will know the one im talking about)

Once i unbolted that bolt, and with alot of um 'persuading' we managed to pull the gearbox off. It was not a fun or easy job to do. A mixture of pry bars, and yelling and screaming got the sucker off.

Tommorrow, i'm not working, so i ahve the entire day off to do the final pull down. Hopefully ill have the head off by tommorrow nite, before i head out again.



Clutch/Pressure Plate/Flywheel

So thigns left to do:
-Remove Loom (Remember to label everything richard - don't forget the speedo pin is in the CV's container)
-Remove Exhaust Manifold (dump pipe, turbo,...)
-Remove Intake (throttle, injectors,....)
-Remove Head (Cam Cover, Cams, Timing Belt,....)

12-18-2004, 08:25 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 3

Well so much for getting alot done on the car today, didn't help going out on the piss last nite, and coming home and sleeping till 1.30pm. And then going out again. But eh, ended up i could n't do much with the car today anyways.

I pulled off the pressure plate and clutch today, was surprised, that with the abuse i've been giving the car, in the few months i've had it, that the clutch was in good shape, with lots of meat left. But, it will be tossed, since ill be upgrading something larger for my power goals, and driving habits. (Ceramic or similar).

Tried to mount the engine onto the engine stand, but the bolts i have arn't long enough, so ill have to go get some longer ones to mount it. I possibly have to remove the flywheel before putting it one anyways.

I moved the car into the backyard, freeing up the patio for the engine teardown. Should be fun.

12-18-2004, 08:26 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 4 - The saga of the very tight bolts!

I really wish i had more time to work on the car.

First things first, removed the flywheel. With dad on a spanner holding the crank, and me with the breaker bar, managed to remove the flywheel bolts. That was the easy part.

Next came the crank pulley. After many attempts of trying to get this bolt off, with everything conceivable that dad and i could think of, we just couldn't get the bugger off. We weren't sure if we were loosening it the right way, so i shot a SMS to Spectral, who promptly replied (thanks). With a bit more effort.... (Dad with a 4 meter long solid bar holding the flywheel side, Me with the breaker bar, and another 3 meters of bar) Snapped the seal on the puller bolt, and unscrewed it. Nice.

Once that was done, got the engine onto the stand, and now it sits there. So the fun stuff begins now. Lets pull apart an engine shall we :)

12-18-2004, 08:26 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 5

Had fun removing the exhaust/turbo/dumppipe combo this afternoon. I didn't realise just how much they weigh, together. I just about dropepd it when i undid the last bolt. My bad.

Unplugged most of the loom, its still connected to the intake and a few injectors i can't get a hold of.

Removed the distributor.
Removed the Coolant Tube (all the coolant lines going to everywhere else on the block)
Removed A/C Condensor (needed to move it to get to a few bolts)

And thats about it. I would have gotten the intake off as well, except i have a shit 12mm socket, and no other form of 12mm anywhere. So ill have to buy another one tommorrow.

A few observations with a few parts removed.

-The exhaust is pure white. I don't know what this means as yet, im looking this up now. Everything from the valves to the downpipe is white.
-The coolant which is still in the block has this powdery residue in it
-I found my original oil leak. It was around the distributor seal and also the cam cover.
-The stock downpipe is very restrictive, and easy gains to be had there.

12-18-2004, 08:27 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 6

Exciting stuff today.

-Removed Throttle Body
-Removed TVIS&TVSV
-Removed Injectosr
-Removed Fuel Rail
-Removed Loom

And this is where i stand.

This is with the cam cover removed.
If you look closely, you can see water in and around the cams.

Won't be working on the car tommorrow, but i need a few more tools, so i can remove the intake (i don't have a 12mm socket/spanner small enough) and also need a small long thin 10mm to get to a bolt in the cam cover.

Also need a socket to fit the headbolts.

12-18-2004, 08:28 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 7

And today was the day of days, after going out to buy the last few tools i needed (spline 12mm socket, and a deep 10mm and 12mm sockets) i came home to pull he head off.

Things done:
-Removed intake+tvis
-Removed cams
-Removed head

And a few pictures of things removed.
Naked Head

All cams and timing geared removed + headbolts (exhaust on the right, intake on the left) - I also lost a pin out of my cam gears, my bad.

I never knew how long all these bolts would take me to remove, you had to systematically remove all the bolt sin a certain order over several passes. The same can be said for the head bolts, to avoid warping.

And now.... the blown headgasket????!?
Cylinder 1

Cylinder 2

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 4

Now this is when i start asking the question.... it looks to me that the headgasket hasn't blown at all. It doesn't even look like a stock gasket should be (i think). So if it wasn't this causing my overheating problems as such. Hrrrm.

Some better pictures of the gasket.
Between cyl1 and cyl2
Between cyl3 and cyl4
Bent gasket at cyl3 intake side

So i'm open to ideas. My thoughts so far.
-buggered thermostat staying shut
-blocked radiator
-buggered radiator cap
-cracked block
-cracked head

Sorta serves me right for not checking these things first i think, but never mind, been fun pulling the engine apart. And this is where i call it quits and think about my next move.

Project Engine Build Down Successful, Richard signing out. Watch out for the engine build up thread.

12-18-2004, 09:49 AM
oh man. id be pissed, if id gone through all that to not really find the problem id diagnosed

hope u figure it out man

meanwhile awesome write up and incredible photographic detail

12-18-2004, 09:56 AM
oh man. id be pissed, if id gone through all that to not really find the problem id diagnosed

hope u figure it out man

meanwhile awesome write up and incredible photographic detail

I'm not actually, this has been fun and an awesome experience. I'll more then likely finish the job and rebuild the engine while its out. Life experience.

12-18-2004, 01:03 PM
My money's on the cylinder3 and that bent bit of gasket....

*continues to muse*

And to prove it, here it is.

After talking to a mate of mine, he had a look at my pictures and put his money on cyl3.

So to prove him wrong, i went and got the gasket, and put a ruler against the far edges.

And look what i found.....
cyl3 has deformed completely, scary huh. So i havn't wasted my time. :)

I was actually expecting to see parts of the gasket missing, not just bent. Very deceiving.

12-18-2004, 02:20 PM
dear god.... i remember when i did all of that. especially figuring out where was the hg was leaking from. that was an absolute bitch to find.

12-19-2004, 01:59 AM
Well now its down to the question, should i finish the job and rebuild the engine?
I'm tempted by forgies.

12-19-2004, 05:43 AM
Build the hell out of it now so you don't have to do it later. Forged pistons and rods would be nice to have for when Conrad finishes up the adapter to mate Mitsubishi turbos to our exhaust manifolds. Then you could push a lot more boost without too much additional lag and not need to worry about your bottom end. :)

12-19-2004, 05:49 AM
Now i have the engine out, the head off the block, the damage assessed, now where too from here?

The head will be sent away to be rebuilt, and get some port work done to it (clean up the dags, and valve job, 3 angle sounds good). But what to do with the bottom end.

By rights, i should at minimum, replace rings, bearings and all seals, on the short block. The obvious things like oil/water pumps will be repalced as a necessary. Get the block chemically cleaned as well?

But if im going to go that far, why don't i replace the pistons with some forged items, and get the rods shotpeened. Research sees the pistons being a weakspot, they seem to let go at 400fwhp, only because of detonation mind you. I could get a set of Arias forged pistons for $850 to my door, which come with rings and gudgeon pin. Would be a worthwhile upgrade, especialy if i decide to chase more power.

Rods, well, as research has it, has easily seen 400ft/lb of torque, treating them would give a deffinate plus, a bit more reliability. Crank is over engineered as normal, good on toyota.

But really, do i need all this? I should just clean up the block, and be happy with it, slap on a metal head gasket, Arp head stud kit, and be happy with it. But there isn't any hurt on rebuilding the engine now is there? i've gone to the effort to tear it down, i might as well, give it a nice clean up. Nice upgrade.

Rebuild Block?
Leave it?
Rebuild Block?
Leave it?
Rebuild Block?
Leave it?

12-19-2004, 07:35 AM
top writeup once again Richard!
i'm not too sure one what u should do. u have heard the saying "if its not broken,dont fix it".. but yet again its alot of work to pull it all down again...
i suppose you ask yourself: how deep are your pockets?, and how long do you plan on keeping the car? is it worth investing the money?

sorry,i'm not much of a help... :D

12-19-2004, 07:46 AM
top writeup once again Richard!
i'm not too sure one what u should do. u have heard the saying "if its not broken,dont fix it".. but yet again its alot of work to pull it all down again...
i suppose you ask yourself: how deep are your pockets?, and how long do you plan on keeping the car? is it worth investing the money?

sorry,i'm not much of a help... :D

And i agree with you, the bottom end is in tip top shape. Apart from a builtup from carbon, looks good. The head is another matter.

I keep reading about reports of the bottom end holding 400fwhp. I'm only chasing 200awkw, so if thats the case the stock bottom end is sufficient to my needs.

But at the same time, if im going to build up a motor, i don't want to rush it, also i'd like to fully do the job, treat the crank, forged pistons and forged rods.....


12-19-2004, 11:33 PM
I probably wont be much of any help. But if i was in your situation i would definately get the head done as you stated before, just to help the 3sgte breathe a little better.

Then after you get all that good stuff accomplished decide on your HP goals in the next few years. Then decide if your bottom end will be sufficient or not.

But of course a lot of the time deciding on what you need and dont need relies on your wallet, it always seems to slow me down!

Anyway, keep the pics coming, i always like watching the rebuilding process.


12-21-2004, 09:12 PM
damn...i'm pretty muchin the same situation. I took the top off and it's goin for rebuild. My power goal is same as your pretty much. If you say that the bottom can hold 400 then i think there's no need to mess with the bottom.

12-21-2004, 09:16 PM
Yes it can, but keep in mind, one detonation, and its over.....

Ill more then likely be rebuilding the engine myself, with forgies. And ill get the rods treated.

12-21-2004, 10:55 PM
If you're not looking for extreme horsepower goals, I'd just get everything resurfaced.

The block can be chemically cleaned, and your pistons and rods can be reconditioned, balanced, and they even have special heat coatings for pistons now.

Forged internals doesn't mean the car won't detonate. It still can, but it just has a much larger tolerance to stress.

12-22-2004, 03:02 AM
how can they be reconditioned (rods) ? any links?

12-22-2004, 03:10 AM
Any machine shop should be able to do it. It's basically just bringing everything within OEM specs. You can also do things like shot peening (sp?) which is where they cold form the surface with a blast of hardened steel balls. Balancing could also be done.

12-25-2004, 11:22 PM
Shotpeening can be done, as well as cyro treatment. I wouldn't really rely on it for the pistons though, but everything else i would.

Okay guys, after thinking about it, i've decided to go ahead with the rebuild.

Ill get the block chemically treated, rehoned, and measured, if the bores are still in good nick, then ill just use my stock pistons. And if they need new pistons, ill go with the forgies, seems fair enough?

Keep an eye out for the buildup thread :)

12-26-2004, 02:38 AM
Very good man. I think once you're finished, we should sticky all of your posts on the engine teardown/rebuild.

12-27-2004, 02:11 AM
Hmm, awsome thread man. Very detailed and excellent pics. Good luck with the rebuild.

12-27-2004, 05:31 AM
Project Engine Build Down Day 8

Since i've decided to go the full rebuild, i needed to strip the block down, ready for when the workshops open again, so i can get the block and head treated.

So, here goes.

Removed the remaining bolts and ancillary parts off the engine block

Removed the Oil Cooler

Removed the Sump

Removed the Oil Pickup+Strainer

Bottom End Exposed

Removed Oil Pump+Seal

Removed Rear Seal

Removal of Rods - Important to cover the thread to avoid damage to the crank and bore

Pistons, Caps, and Bearings lines up, left to right, 1,2,3,4

Removed Crank - i wasn't sure on order of removal, so i went opposite of installation, which is inside out, so i went outside in.

The complete bottom end removed

Crank Bearings + caps - right to left 1,2,3,4,5

And the naked block, with oil squirters. Yet to be removed.

And thats where i stand. After having a talk to dad at the condition of the bearings. Im sure glad im replacing them. Alot of them are a bit sad. Pictures tommorrow. I've had enough for today.

12-27-2004, 08:05 AM
Awesome pics man. And does the 3rd piston/conrod look different to anyone else??

And Lance does the sump have a specific gasket or is it just gasket goo? mine started leaking :( and while i'm at it. how hard is it to change the dissy seal? coz thats leakin too. damn 3SGTE! lol

12-27-2004, 08:21 AM
All the pistons are the same, the lighting puts it off a little.

As for the seals, the sump is sealed with sealant or gasket goo. To change it, drain the oil, remove all the 10mm bolts/screws, re seal, and screw it all back together. Very straight forward.

Dissy seal is straight forward. Put your engine at TDC. remove the dizzy by the 2 14mm bolts. Pull it out, change the seal, and reverse. Make sure all the timing marks lineup, otherwise it will be 180degrees out.

Also check your cam cover seal, as mine was leaking when i pulled out the engine. Its as straight forward as it lookes.

Tommorrow ill take a detailed picture of all the piston's and bearings. You can all see the damage for yourselves.

12-28-2004, 07:16 AM
Hey Richard, sorry to hijack but, do u have to drop the crossmembers to remove the sump? and also what does "TDC" stand for?hehe i'm n00b And what would i expect to pay for the dissy seal? (trade price)it would be the same part as the 3SGE's and stuff i would think?
thanks mate.

lets see the new pics!:D

12-28-2004, 10:06 AM
The most you'll need to do is remove the front-back crossmember. But that isn't made any easier with the east-west crossmember in the road. They have to come out :)

Although, you might not need to, get under the car and have a look.

TDC - Top Dead Centre, with the engine off, align the crank so that the little mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 0 timing mark. And ya done.

12-31-2004, 08:18 AM
A few pictures of observations.

Rod Bearings

Damaged #4 bearing top side - if you look closely, there are alot of pitting

Damaged #4 journal

Crank Bearings

Thrust Bearings

cyl1 and cyl 2 pistons

cyl3 and cyl 4 pistons

01-01-2005, 05:31 PM
Nice man. It's amazing what you find when you open up an engine.

What's the plan so far?

01-01-2005, 05:43 PM
The plans at the moment...

My power goals have changed, so ill be wanting atleast 350awhp.
So i'm going:
forged pistons
treated stock rods (not sure, might go forgies yet)
crank will be balanced (rod journals reground 1 size under, and main journals possibly (need to measure them))
New seals everywhere
new oil+water pump
ARP HEadstuds + MHG
possibly might go arp main bolts and rod bolts as well, will see how funds go.

Gotta also save up for the clutch+gearbox upgrade at the same time.... this is not a cheap venture at all :)

01-01-2005, 05:44 PM
forget to metion, the head is also being rebuilt. With 3angle valve grind and a slight cleaning of the dags in and around the obvious places.

01-20-2006, 08:21 AM
dude this happend to me too, my head gasket blew....do u think i sould tear it appart and rebuild it or get a used low milage engine? the head gasket blew and sat for a while so when i pulled off the cam covers the cams were rusty...then i pulled off the exh. manifold and i saw that the valves had this greenish white stuff all over them...thats as far as ive gone! wut u think i sould do?